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Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Traveling in a rundown taxi and exhausted at Jesus' feet

Mass plain at the final stop of Via Dolorosa

Mass plain at the final stop of Via Dolorosa

Bog Travel--Beyond the white-sand beaches and vestiges of colonial legacy left by the Portuguese, Dili boasts few places of interest for those traveling to Timor Leste.

The country has a long history of colonization and war, with the Portuguese ruling over the barren territory for 450 years until Indonesia assumed control in 1974.

The former port city is bordered by a mountain range to the east, south and west and the sea to the north. Many of the old colonial buildings, including the old government offices and the post office, still retain their original architectural design. Like many old buildings in the city, particularly around the beachfront, most remain in use and cannot be visited by tourists.

The government complex boasts vast gardens and roads with wide, well-paved walkways. The breezy Dili beaches are a favorite hangout for residents who love to relax under the shady banyan trees sipping locally harvested Arabica coffee or drinking coconut water.

The most renowned is Pantai Pasir Putih (white sand beach), situated about four kilometers east of Dili. As the name suggests, this lazy getaway charms visitors with its white sand and clear, calm water. With just a few minor ripples in the sea, the location is ideal for children.

Tourists at Pasir Putih beach near DiliTourists at Pasir Putih beach near Dili

Famous as a family picnic spot, visitors to Pantai Pasir Putih can enjoy the gorgeous view of tall, arid hills and the beach itself. During the working week, the spot is very quiet.

Nightlife is virtually non-existent, so don't come expecting a discotheque or movie theater. There are red-light districts disguised as massage parlors, which locals claim cater mainly to expatriates.

With tourist facilities still very rudimentary, Dili has a long way to go before it will attract global travelers seeking out a classy holiday.

At Hotel Lus Clarita, just a stones throw from the post office, expatriates hold parties regularly on Friday and Saturday nights.

Los Palos, at the eastern tip of Timor Island, is becoming a more popular spot for tourists. Around six hours by car from Dili through bumpy roads and seemingly endless hills, the area features some fantastic beaches and a glimpse into local culture.

Timor Leste is acclaimed for its indigenous woven cloth that can be easily found in major shops or being sold on Dili's roadsides, most likely by the villagers who made it.

Jesus Christ the KingJesus Christ the King

A trip to Dili without visiting the Jesus Christ the King statue is like going to Italy without dropping by the Vatican. Or at least that is what my local friends say.

Visiting the giant religious landmark, built by the Indonesian administration during its occupation, is truly worth the exhausting trek through scrub areas and along the ridges of barren hills.

Along the one kilometer paved pathway leading to the statue are small grottos depicting the Via Dolorosa. Beginning with Jesus being condemned to death at the lowest grotto, the frieze finishes toward the top of the path with Jesus being resurrected from the dead. It's a shame the many of the grottos have been vandalized.

If and when you decide to go to the monument, don't forget to double your portions of breakfast that morning and take along extra water. All vehicles have to park by the beach at the foot of the hill, so you must continue by foot. On a hot day, you would be advised to take an umbrella or wide-brimmed hat to avoid sunburn.

People relax under the shade of an old banyan tree by the Dili beach.People relax under the shade of an old banyan tree by the Dili beach.

The tall bronze statue perches on top of a limestone cliff, which majestically overlooks Dili and the still, clear beaches. The capital's main buildings and mooring ships at the port can be made out in the distance, beyond the wide ocean.

Every Easter, around 5,000 people gather for mass in the large open area surrounding the statue. One final push is needed to actually reach the base of the monument, but it is certainly worth it. The breathtaking view of the blue sea in all directions quickly overcomes feelings of exhaustion.

The gargantuan statue was built in 1996 by the Indonesian colonial administration as an effort to win over the people of Timor Leste.

Transportation is a major headache for visitors, with taxis virtually the only option. Minibuses are available, but learning the routes, switching buses and waiting for long periods is a hassle.

Even though taxi drivers are generally very friendly, some provide terribly poor service. The cars are mostly run-down with no air conditioners or meters. Officially, the fare is supposed to US$1 per in-city trip, but the driver may charge you up to $5 on the pretext that your destination appears to be "farther than he thinks".

Our driver charged us an additional $10 for each hour he waited without telling us beforehand. Another interesting thing about the taxi service in Dili is that they become extremely picky after sunset. Although the streets may be empty, drivers will sometimes flatly refuse to take you, without providing a reason. Later, I learned that they avoid certain areas notorious for crime. Pointing at his broken windshield, a driver said he had had it pelted with stones by drunken youths.

When and if you travel to Timor Leste, bring your sense of humor. It's a lovely country.

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