NNew Year in NYC Chinatown: Culture, shopping, food

Beth J. Harpaz ,

My Travel-In preparation for the upcoming Year of the Ox, a selection of small plastic replicas of oxen are for sale in a street-side display on Mott Street in New York. (AP/Kathy Willens)

The Year of the Ox begins Jan. 26 and stores all over Chinatown are selling bright red decorations to mark the new year. But while it's easy to pick up cheap souvenirs at shops around the neighborhood, it's also worth spending a day seeking out the unfamiliar. You can sample new dishes, listen to a two-stringed fiddle called an erhu, or even visit a Buddhist temple.

Michael Moi, spokesman for the Chinatown Partnership, which was formed after the Sept. 11th attacks to promote the area and preserve local culture, encourages visitors to "open themselves up when it comes to Chinatown, and disregard preconceived notions. People recognize that Chinatown is good for good food and shopping, but there's a lot more to it. We're a cultural center, and people should bring a sense of adventure when they visit."

Dim sum restaurants, where small plates of food are offered from carts that circle the dining room, offer an easy and inexpensive way to try new dishes. Typical fare includes dumplings filled with shrimp, pork and vegetables, stuffed tofu rolls, sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves, and mildly sweet desserts like egg custard tarts and sesame seed balls with red bean paste.

Patrons check out steamy containers of dim sum at the Golden Unicorn restaurant in Chinatown in New York. (AP/Kathy Willens)

There's no shortage of dim sum places in Chinatown, but a good one that's a little tricky to find is the Golden Unicorn, at 18 E. Broadway near Catherine Street; take the elevator up to the dining room. Dim sum is served Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.- 4 p.m., and weekends beginning at 9 a.m.; most dishes are $3.75 each. The restaurant offers a regular pre-order menu for dinner. Don't be surprised if you're seated at a large round table with other customers; it's common practice in Chinatown and may inspire you to try something new recommended by your tablemate. (Bills are tallied separately.)

Gift shops are also ubiquitous in Chinatown. Wind-up toys and shiny red wall hangings spill from every other storefront along Mott Street south of Canal. But a few specialty stores are worth exploring in depth. Ten Ren Tea at 75 Mott St. sells tea that ranges from $2 a bag for regular jasmine to $144 for a pound of "King's Tea."

At 50 Mott St. you'll find Yunhong Chopsticks, a boutique that sells nothing but chopsticks, from $1.99 plastic chopsticks to $600 chopsticks made from black ebony in beautiful display cases. Some chopsticks are engraved and some are inlaid with seashells. The Yunhong company is based in China and has stores there, it also sells chopstick styles from Korea and Japan. The more expensive sets are bought for wedding and housewarming gifts.

Store manager Richard Lam says "chopsticks have a lot of culture," and he'll gladly explain the significance of any chopsticks you take a fancy to. For example, he says, traditional Chinese chopsticks are round at the bottom and square at the top to symbolize "common people on the earth and gods in the sky."

Pearl River Mart is another must for serious shoppers, even though its location at 477 Broadway north of Grand Street puts it closer to Soho than the heart of Chinatown. Look around this vast emporium for Asian goods and you'll be tempted to throw out everything you own and start over again with new home decor and a new wardrobe. Lamps shaped like Chinese takeout boxes are $18.50, silk evening bags are $8.50, richly colored cushion covers with delicate floral designs are $8.50, and sandalwood scented soaps are three for $1.25.

Some shoppers come to Pearl River with specific needs, like Mia Hockett of Burlington, Vt., who knelt in an aisle twirling parasols with her fiance Adam Blake. "We're buying parasols for our wedding next summer in Vermont," she explained.

On the other side of the neighborhood is the Mahayana Buddhist Temple at 133 Canal St. It's a busy location, near the ramp to the Manhattan Bridge and next to the Fung Wah bus stop, where college students line up for cheap tickets to Boston.

But walk past the golden lions at the entrance and inside you'll find an oasis of peace. Here worshippers light incense, leave offerings of food and flowers, and fold their hands in devout prayer to Buddha, represented by a smiling golden 16-foot-tall statue.

"They come to say 'Thank you for a wish come true,'" explained Molly Chen, who works in the temple, "or if someone in their family passes away, people ask Buddha to give them a better life in the next life." Chen said January is a busy month, as people seek good luck and protection for the new year.

The temple is open to the public. On a recent day, tourists from Holland, France and Ohio were among those buying paper fortunes for $1 and reading the story of Buddha's life in a series of illustrated signs on the walls.

Spiny durian fruit hang above a display of persimmons, oranges, tomatoes and cherries at a Chinatown market on East Broadway in New York. (AP/Kathy Willens)

Another side of Chinatown is best experienced outdoors. Many markets have open-air displays of fish, vegetables and fruit like the exotic green durian. Vendors sell bags of tiny sweet pancakes, cooked on griddles in streetcarts, for $1.50. A statue of Confucius can be found on Bowery Avenue south of Canal Street. A few blocks south of there stands a monument to Lin Zexu, who crusaded against the opium trade in the 19th century and whose statue describes him as a "pioneer in the war against drugs."

Near Mott Street, in Columbus Park, you might find seniors practicing tai chi or a man playing the erhu. He sells the instruments from a cart, $350 apiece. Look for the dragon head carved into the scroll of the neck.

Sara Delano Roosevelt Park is home to the Wah-Mei Bird Garden (near Chrystie and Broome streets), where bird owners bring their pets in ornate cages to get fresh air. On a chilly winter morning, four or five men hung cages from cross-poles there; one whistled to his bird and the creature trilled back. On a warm spring weekend, dozens of bird owners gather here.

If you're up for more than a day trip to Chinatown, check out the Best Western Bowery Hanbee Hotel at 231 Grand St. and the Holiday Inn at 138 Lafayette St. Both have rooms around $200 - a bargain for Manhattan.

You'll find a good map of the area and lots of information about things to see and do at http://www.ExploreChinatown.com . Or stop by the Official NYC Information Kiosk at the triangle of Canal, Walker and Baxter streets, 10 a.m.-6 p.m., near the Canal Street subway stops on the N, Q, R, W and 6 trains. The neighborhood is also served by the F train to East Broadway, and the D or B trains to Grand Street.

If you're visiting in late January or early February, catch some New Year's festivities. There will be lion dances on Jan. 26 and Feb. 8 in and around the neighborhood, 11 a.m.-6 p.m., and a ceremony with firecrackers Jan. 26, at noon in the Sara Delano Roosevelt Park soccer field near Canal and Forsyth streets by the Manhattan Bridge.

The Museum of Chinese in America offers New Year's Walking Tours, Jan. 17, 24 and 31, 1 p.m - 2:30 p.m., with stops for shopping and tasting. Tickets are $15 (students and seniors, $12; children under 5 free). Tours depart from 70 Mulberry St., second floor; reservations at http://www.mocanyc.org or 212-619-4785.

A New Year's parade is scheduled for Feb. 1, beginning at 1 p.m., with a route that includes Mott Street, Chatham Square, East Broadway, Allen Street, Grand Street and Chrystie Street, and a performance in Sara Delano Roosevelt Park, noon- 4 p.m.

Cantonese Opera performances are offered at the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association, 62 Mott St., every weekend through March. The Museum of Chinese in America is sponsoring a family-oriented Lunar New Year Arts Festival, Jan. 18, noon-5 p.m. at the Children's Museum of the Arts, 182 Lafayette St., with workshops and performances in art, music, dance and theater ($10 admission).

The best areas to stay on Lombok

Lombok geographically is almost the same size as Bali and, just as there are popular tourist areas on Bali, so Lombok offers a variety of destinations to suit different holidaymakers' tastes. Following is an overview of the most popular areas to stay in Lombok.

Senggigi is the main tourist area on the mainland, with the town stretching along several fantastic bays on the west coast, and is only 20 minutes from the island's Selaparang airport. It is the ideal base from which to explore the island, and all major tourist attractions can be reached by day trips from Senggigi, including boat trips from Senggigi Bay out to the Gilis. There is a wide range of accommodations ranging from the five-star Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort to elegant private villas to comfortable small hotels and home stays. The main street in town runs parallel to the beach and is lined with restaurants, shops, banks, moneychangers and other tourist facilities. Nowhere near as developed as Kuta in Bali, Senggigi is a delightful place to stay while relaxing, dining and exploring.

Senggigi Bay is a large clean beach around which Senggigi has developed, with resorts running from the beach to the main road. The beach is a great place to hang out, sunbath and enjoy a massage, or swim and snorkel in the clear waters. The Pasar Seni (Art Market) faces onto the beach, with restaurants and bars overlooking the bay and small shops selling souvenirs, clothes and handicrafts in the market behind. The beachfront hotels and restaurants are good places to watch the magical Lombok sunsets, when the sun sinks into the ocean behind Bali, silhouetting the volcanoes against the sky.

Slightly farther north, the resort areas of Kerandangan and Mangsit offer a variety of good accommodations, including the stylish Qunci Villas, Puri Mas Boutique Resorts, Windy Beach Resort and Holiday Resort. The beaches here have white sand and clear turquoise waters and are largely deserted.

At night, there is a great range of entertainment on offer, as well as fabulous dining in some of the Senggigi restaurants. There's international fine dining, cuisines ranging from Thai, Japanese, Mexican and Korean (to name a few), or spicy local Lombok fare all on offer. A number of restaurants and bars have live entertainment with talented local bands playing popular music at night; and there are several nightclubs and discos featuring top bands, DJs and guest stars from around the nation. Senggigi caters to all types of holidaymakers - there are budget options for travelers, romantic options for couples and honeymooners, and wonderful places for families with children of all ages.

The Gili Islands are one of the most popular destinations on Lombok; every year thousands of people flock to these three small islands just off the northwest coast of Lombok. With many fast boat options such as Gili Cat and Blue Water Express providing easy transfers between the Gilis and Bali, the islands have become a popular getaway not just for overseas travelers but for those living on Bali too.

Each of the islands has a distinctively different "feel", which makes them an ideal destination for any type of traveler looking for the tropical island idyll. Gili Air is the island closest to the mainland and has a good range of accommodations, ranging from comfortable hotels to small budget home stays. The pace is very laidback, with days spent sunbathing on the clean beaches, diving in the great locations around the island and snorkeling the reefs just off shore. At night, the mood is relaxed with small warung and restaurants offering fresh seafood barbecues and local cuisine, and live music at some of the bars. Gili Meno is the middle island of the three Gilis and the quietest of the three - perfect for couples and families. The beaches are beautiful and safe for swimming, with good snorkeling just off the beach. This is the best place to see turtles in their natural environment and the dive operators on the island can help you discover the fine dive sites nearby. There are some small upmarket hotels, as well as bungalows on the beach and budget places from which to choose. If walking along a deserted beach under the stars is what you are looking for, Gili Meno has loads of atmosphere. Gili Trawangan is the most famous of the Gilis and the farthest from the mainland, although still only 10 minutes away by speedboat. Here the feel is "tropical island meets Seminyak", due to the number of upmarket eateries and villa developments that have sprung up on the island over the past couple of years. There is such a wide range of accommodation now available on Gili T (as it's known) that you can choose anything from a simple thatched bungalow on the beach to a luxury villa with private swimming pool. Dive companies abound on the island and many people come to Gili T to learn scuba diving, although the snorkeling is good and there are a number of other water activities available, including sunset cruises and glass bottom boat trips. Originally the domain of backpackers, Gili T is definitely now a place for all people - from budget travelers, to honeymooners to families. Something for everyone!

Kuta, the main tourist area on the south coast of Lombok, is not to be confused with its famous namesake in Bali. Kuta, Lombok, is a peaceful beach destination that has found fame due to the great surf locations that surround the small town. The beaches of the south coast are sublime, with sparkling white sand and clear blue oceans stretching to the horizon. Many people come to the area just to view some of the most stunning landscapes in Indonesia. Many more come to challenge the waves that roll off the peninsulas of nearby Gerupuk and Tanjung A'an.

Most of the accommodations in the area cater for the surf crowd, with lots of budget places, although there are a couple of mid-range hotels and some nice small hotels dotted along the beach toward Mandalika. The Novotel Lombok (Mandalika Resort) is located on the pristine beachfront here, and features luxurious accommodation in traditionally designed bungalows and villas.

In town are a number of good restaurants with cuisine ranging from simple local dishes to international fare, while on the hilltop overlooking the stunning coastline is the popular Ashtari Restaurant, serving delicious organic cuisine in a truly delightful setting. If you are looking for a laidback holiday location with lots of sunshine, uncrowded beaches, awe-inspiring views and plenty of accessible local culture, Kuta is the place for you!

-- Barbara Lucas Cahyadi

Barrycourt Accommodation & Event Centre

MY TRAVEL-Experience the comfortable accommodation blended with a warm hospitality and unsurpassed service at the Barry court Accommodation and Event Centre. Location Situated in the desirable downtown Parnell Residential Area, the Barry court Accommodation and Event Centre is close to various city attractions like Newmarket Shops, medical school, university, Auckland Domain and Mini Putt Golf. Rooms This property offers 107 well-appointed accommodation units that have been elegantly furnished with an array of in-room amenities to ensure you a comfortable and pleasant stay. Restaurant Guests can dine at the onsite restaurant, which serves appetising variety of food. General This hotel offers 7 well-equipped meeting rooms that can accommodate up to 300 guests for organising various important events. For your physical and mental well-being, the Barry Court Accommodation and Event Centre offers spa that can be availed during leisure. Hotel Facilities Conference facilities Internet access Laundry facilities Lounge Parking facilities Reception Restaurant Spa Room Facilities Cable / Satellite TV Hairdryer Private bathroom / Ensuite Telephone Accommodation from NZD $125. Address 10-20 Gladstone Road Parnell Auckland 1052

SKYCITY Hotel Auckland

MY TRAVEL-The Skycity Auckland offers you a unique holiday experience, with the highest standards of accommodation, cuisine and recreation. Location Located in the heart of Auckland, this property is just 20 minutes drive from the Victoria Street and about 45 minutes drive from the airport. The hotel is also close to the Harbour as well as shopping on Queen Street. Rooms The hotel offers 344 prestigious accommodation units, where its suites and guestrooms combine elegance and class with the most exclusive and modern comforts. Restaurant Guests can enjoy an exquisite dining experience at the on-site restaurants, which boasts high quality food to satisfy all type of tastes. You can also unwind in a warm friendly atmosphere with excellent drinks at the cosy bar. General At Skycity Auckland, guests can make use of the well-equipped conference room as well as the business centre. Also available on-site is a fitness centre, swimming pool and a sauna that will delight those who wish to rest after an intense day of work or sightseeing. Hotel Facilities Baby sitting service Business centre Cocktail bar Concierge Conference facilities Currency exchange Doctor on call Dry cleaning facilities Gift shop Gymnasium Laundry facilities Non-smoking rooms Outdoor swimming pool Parking facilities Reception Restaurant Room service Sauna Room Facilities Air conditioning Cable / Satellite TV Hairdryer Heating In-room safe Internet access Mini bar Modem/data port connection Private bathroom / Ensuite Radio Refrigerator Tea and coffee making facilities Telephone Accommodation from NZD $211. Additional Information 45 min drive to the Airport (Auckland) Address 90 Federal Street Auckland 1010

Seeking some rest and recreation in the hidden corner of Batam

MY TRAVEL-A little peace: Nongsa, on the coast of Batam Island, provides a place to get away from it all for a while, to enjoy comfortable resorts, water activites and restful ocean views. (JP/Simon Marcus Gower)

Let’s start by being brutally honest: At first glance, Batam Island does not really appear a great vacation proposition.

Parts of the island are best described as an eyesore, with highly utilitarian industrial and commercial premises stretching over large swathes of the land.

And let’s be frank about the land itself, too – flat for one thing, with soil – exposed through the island’s numerous excavations – in an unappealing orangey-yellowish color that looks infertile and grubby.

Now we’ve got that out of the way, there is one more thing to add: Better things lie ahead.

As you travel from the island’s Hang Nadim airport to the area known as Nongsa, the industrial and commercial buildings – and that grubby-looking soil – gradually give way to dense thickets of shrubs and low-lying plants.

Keep going. This unkempt shrubbery then gives way to something else – to signs of humanity taming this wilderness and making it into something lovely and fresh. You have arrived at the dreamy vacation area of Nongsa, Nongsa is in the northern coastal region of Batam Island, with attractive inlets and beaches that add up to an idyllic and tranquil setting for some rest and recreation. There are golf courses here for those so interested, but it is much more the coast, the beaches and the resorts along the waterfront that attract visitors.

The resorts at Nongsa range from the pristine and ultramodern to the more traditional and tropical made from timber and bamboo with thatched roofs. Some of the modern architecture is impressive but those who find all that concrete and steel clinical and cold with may prefer the more “traditional” architecture with its natural materials.

Regardless of the style of architecture, the common theme here is the sea and the Strait of Singapore that Nongsa looks out onto. The shores and skyscrapers of Singapore are visible in the distance – no prizes for guessing why Singaporeans account for many of the holidaymakers.

Singapore is but a 45-minute ferry ride away, making it all too easy for those city-dwellers to escape their crowded city-state for the tranquility of Batam’s resort, the ferry dropping them at the very well-constructed and -managed ferry terminal known as Nongsapura.

Thanks to Nongsapura, getting to and from the resorts is easy and comfortable, with ferries setting off at regular intervals to destinations in both Singapore and Malaysia. These speedy ferries deftly negotiate busy waters, weaving around the huge cargo ships and tankers that pass through the strait. Before all that, though, comes the Nongsa River.

The Nongsa River connects the island to the strait. Like much of the rest of Batam Island, it is surrounded by dense vegetation, which lends it a distinctly wild air. Trips upriver to view exotic birds and wild monkeys are possible, although most people find it hard to drag themselves away from the coast.

One of those coastal attractions is Nongsa’s impressive and expansive marina open to private vessels. Otherwise, there are plenty of watery activities to help while away the holidays: fishing, snorkeling, parasailing, water-skiing, jet-skiing and banana boating.

The downside of all these water activities is the water itself – or more particularly the clarity of the water. It is perhaps only to be expected that with this strait being a major marine thoroughfare – dozens of massive ships pass through the Strait and often time clouds of exhaust fumes can be seen belching from their enormous engines – the water is going to be on the murky side of pristine.

The problem of pollution is also evident in the work of the cleaners raking the beaches each morning, burying the less desirable offerings that have been washed up on the shore.

Never mind – there is no need to swim in the sea, as the resorts all have their own swimming pools replete with fountains and waterfalls, and a mix of depths to please everyone from children and the more serious swimmer. Given this, the sea may be better left alone as a backdrop for the resorts.

Otherwise, the environment in Nongsa is generally clean and well kept, creating great benefits for the local wildlife. In the thick lush forests, visitors can see exotic and colorful birds going about their business of foraging and nesting. At night, bats sweep across the sky, gorging themselves on the abundant fruit hanging from the trees.

Nongsa and its resorts may be quite different from the rest of Batam Island, but are created ideally for rest and recreation. The detail in the construction and management of the hotels and resorts means taking a vacation here can be very pleasing and satisfying – regardless of first impressions./TJP

Traveling into China’s Past

MY TRAVEL-The gate to the Li Garden estate. JP/Kurniawan Hari

China today is a modern country, after rapid infrastructure development in almost every city.

In Beijing, the construction of the Bird’s Nest stadium and the Water Cube aquatic center for last year’s Olympic Games is nothing less than hard evidence of its economic might.

In Guangzhou, a city in southern China, we can also witness the robust economy, as seen from the massive construction of public facilities such as highways and bridges, not to mention skyscrapers.

Despite its modernity, China is admirable for its strong devotion to the preservation of its culture and traditions. Several journalists from Southeast Asia were recently invited to look at China’s glorious past and natural beauty.

Our tour guide Thomas Shau jumped out of the bus that took us from downtown Guangzhou in southern China to Kaiping City, about 140 kilometers to the southwest.

After talking with people at the ticket booth, Thomas shouted to us, “This way, please! This way, please!” This was heard repeatedly on our trip as he was worried we may get separated which might disrupt the tight schedule.

On that sunny day, Thomas had brought us to Li Garden to see the attractions and beautiful old buildings in the estate belonging to the wealthy family. Covering an area of more than one hectare, the complex consists of a man-made lake, narrow canals, hills and old buildings of outstanding architectural interest.

The area was built between 1926 and 1936 by Xie Wei Li, a Chinese man who migrated to the United States. After he became wealthy, he returned to China and built the houses and spacious garden later known as Li Garden. The property combines exotic Chinese gardens with the charm of Western architecture.

An old man demonstrates how to make pottery with the help of his young apprentice. JP/Kurniawan Hari

In the complex, all the houses, some multi-story, are alike architecturally and share similar amenities. The windows are protected by four different coverings; the outer part is an iron panel, followed by iron bars, mosquito nets and then a wood panel.

“They used extra safety measures because they wanted to defend themselves from Japanese invaders. One window was damaged when the Japanese tried to pry it open,” Thomas said, pointing to a damaged window.

The houses are special because there is a kitchen on each floor. Thomas explained that the kitchen allowed the inhabitants to still cook meals when the lower floors were inundated by floods.

The entrance to the rather grand garden has a stone-arched gate which declares the residency of the Li family in two large, handwritten Chinese characters meaning “Li Garden”. The garden incorporates a walk-in aviary, a small lake and a flower pavilion along with numerous trees and plants.

Standing erect in the garden are two steel poles called the “tiger whip” which were built to scare away evil spirits.

As many of us were still enjoying the breeze in this subtropical region, Thomas ordered us to gather and get on the bus.

A brick house in Zili Village in Kaiping. JP/Kurniawan Hari

“It’s time to go and see Zili Village,” he said.

Zili Village is only minutes away from Li Garden to the northeast. As our bus stopped in front of the gate, we got out and went to the old village on foot. With a dry landscape, dirty ponds and old brick houses, frankly, the village does not provide a feast for the eyes.

To ignore this place, however, would be a mistake as we have lessons to learn from this old village, which was inscribed on the list of UNESCO’s World Cultural Heritage sites in 2007.

Located in Tangkou Town, still in Kaiping City, the village consists of three sub-villages constructed between 1821 and 1920. There is a cluster of nine towers known as Diaolou and a group of six Western-style villas, along with single-story houses built of brick and with tiled roofs among the rice fields.

The nine Diaolou are Anlou, Juanlou, Longshenglou, Mingshilou, Quianjulou, Yinonglou, Yunhualou, Zhenanlou and Shulinglou. They were built around the same time in the 1920s by prosperous Chinese emigrants returning to their roots from the United States and elsewhere.

Although different in ornamental detail, the Diaolou are all built of reinforced concrete and are similar in concept: five or six stories high with a balustrade-equipped terrace at the lowest level and arcaded loggias at the top level to catch the breeze.

We had the opportunity of entering one Diaolou, Mingshilou, and climbed to the rooftop. Similar to the buildings at Li Garden, the Diaolou at Zili Village also applied extra security measures. There are two holes above the main door through which the inhabitants can peep to identify anyone knocking on the door.

“If the inhabitants know the identity of the guest, they will open the door and welcome them. But, if they don’t know, they will shoot them through the holes,” Thomas said.

The beautiful man-made waterfall decorates the Shiwan Ceramic Museum. JP/Kurniawan Hari

The furniture and interior decoration show visitors that those who lived in the Diaolou were extremely wealthy families. The beauty of the old standing clock, the chandelier, the paintings and sculptures would impress all visitors. They present a complete picture of the success and aspirations of the returning Chinese emigrants.

The next day, Thomas accompanied us to Xiqiao Hill, which he described as having breathtaking scenery. He said the hill had been hailed as a tourist resort by numerous literati and travelers since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, about 600 years ago.

Xiqiao Hill is about a one-hour drive or 45 kilometers from Guangzhou to the north. The natural beauty of several peaks, caves, rock formations and waterfalls has won the hill “National Forest Park” status from the state government.

On this trip, we visited the former residence of Huang Fei Hong, the martial arts master, a house where literary figures like Zan Ruoshui, He Yunshan, Kang Youwei and Liang Qichao studied Confucianism.

As well as visiting these historic places, our bus took us to the hilltop to see the fascinating giant statue of Guanyin. At 61.9 meters tall, it is the world’s biggest seated Guanyin statue. She is seated in the full lotus position, holding a vial of elixir in her left hand and making a gesture of blessing with her right.

In between the steps leading up to the statue, visitors can see beautiful sculpted reliefs, some of them telling stories in the Buddhist tradition.

The candles are used for prayers in front of the Guanyin statue, located more than 500 meters away. JP/Kurniawan Hari

Leaving the Nanhai Guanyin Cultural Park, we visited the Zumiao Temple or the Temple of the Ancestors. The name simply means that the site is the oldest temple in town. The most interesting feature of the temple is its rich ceiling decorations that show many Chinese figures and creatures.

Our next stop was the Nanfeng Ancient Kiln in Shiwan, the hometown of the ceramic industry. Built during the Ming Dynasty in the 1500s, its wood fire has lasted for 500 years, and it is still producing ceramics in the original way.

As we were visiting the kiln, an old man showed us how to make pottery with the help of his young apprentice, who turned the pottery wheel by means of his right foot. Within few minutes, the man had created a vase, which was removed from the wheel using a strong cord before being put into the kiln.

Walking through narrow corridors, we arrived at the Shiwan Ceramics Museum, where we saw displays of ancient ceramic collections with various designs and the history of the kiln.

The Borneo Post editor Harry Anak Julin who was on the tour expressed his admiration of the creativity and artistic skill the Chinese people possess.

“I would like to spend one or two more days here to learn about the pottery making process,” he said.

At the end of the tour, we came across another stunning view: It was of a man-made waterfall created from hundreds of pieces of colorful pottery pots over which a steady stream of sparkling water flowed.

Its stunning beauty highlights the creativity of Chinese people from the past to the present.

— Photos by Kurniawan Hari

Borobudur at the crossroads

(JP/Sunita Sue Leng)

MY TRAVEL-The best time to visit Borobudur Temple is at dawn. That is when Central Java’s magnificent World Heritage monument is enveloped in cool mist and peace.

That is when you will be able to climb the ancient stones in near solitude and be rewarded with a view of the candi’s rotund stupas – 72 in total – rising majestically out of the mist with the first rays of the sun.

Of course, you don’t actually have Borobudur to yourself. When I went, I was surprised to find 20 to 30 others on the highest terrace of the monument, waiting impatiently for the sun to come up.

They were mostly foreign tourists, some with fancy cameras on tripods, some with little children. However, it was relatively quiet and I felt very fortunate to be able to visit this historic gem in such serene circumstances.

This was my second visit to Borobudur, and how different it was from the first. I had come the day before and made the mistake of coming on a Sunday. The entrance at the foot of the monument was already buzzing with people eager to set foot on the monument and as I looked across the length of Borobudur Park, I could see a never-ending stream of people making their way toward the entrance.

Borobudur at dawn – quiet and peaceful (JP/Sunita Sue Leng)

Once past the entrance, it was quite a challenge trying to navigate the stairways. The narrow stone stairways were choc-a-bloc with people, so climbing was a slow process, often with a view of nothing else but someone else’s posterior. When I got to the top, several visitors, mostly teenagers or children, were seated on top of the stupas, despite signs forbidding visitors to do so.

Strewn across the floors of Borobudur’s many terraces was litter – cigarette butts, empty bottles of mineral water, plastic bags. The few dustbins that were available were already full to the brim. It was not a pretty sight.

According to the authorities, Borobudur gets about 2.5 million visitors a year, the bulk of whom are Indonesians. When I went, schools were on their year-end break so a high proportion of the visitors that day were large groups of excited students on school outings. The rest were mostly families from neighboring provinces who had come on holiday, and a handful of foreign tourists accompanied by their guides (or guidebooks).

Litter along the terraces of Borobudur could damage the porous surfaces of the ancient stones (JP/Sunita Sue Leng)

It is comforting to know that so many people make the effort to visit Borobudur. After all, the monument is a present-day window to Indonesia’s glorious past. It is also an enduring memento of the advanced level of craftsmanship that prevailed in Java at a time when Western Europe was struggling through its Dark Ages.

Built in the eighth and ninth centuries, Borobudur houses a staggering 2,672 relief panels, many exquisitely detailed, as well as 504 Buddha statues. At the summit, a gigantic central stupa rests on a massive lotus-shaped base half a meter thick, making this the largest Buddhist stupa in the world.

Borobudur is a place of pilgrimage for those of the Buddhist faith. Its passages were designed for monks to circumambulate the edifice in silent prayer. Along the lower square terraces, they would be flanked by carvings such as the biography of the Lord Buddha, from his descent from heaven until his enlightenment, which is depicted on the main wall of the first gallery.

As they ascended to the higher circular terraces, they would be surrounded by unembellished stone walls, representing Buddhism’s Sphere of Formlessness. Above them, the main stupa – which is empty, signifying Nirvana – would soar into the sky. Today, Buddhist rituals are still carried out at Borobudur on auspicious days such as Waisak.

On top of this, Borobudur lies amid great natural beauty. As I stood atop the candi’s highest tier, I was almost eye to eye with Mount Merapi, the still-active volcano that soars 2,911 meters in the northeast. It was wrapped in fluffy clouds, while on the ground, green rice paddies stretched for miles.

Children climbing one of the stupas (JP/Sunita Sue Leng)

On the western and southern edges, the Menoreh hills rose and fell. This is the geographical center of Java. Called the Kedu Plain, it is also known as the Garden of Java as it has been made unusually fertile and lush by volcanic earth and the intersection of two rivers, the Progo and the Elo.

Little wonder, then, that so many are drawn to Borobudur, which is already under threat, even without the crowds. According to the Borobudur Heritage Conservation Institute, acid rain has damaged some of the carvings, while global warming could cause more fissures and cracks in the monument’s stones.

The growing number of tourists to Borobudur, which is managed by PT Taman Wisata Candi Borobudur, Prambanan and Ratu Boko, add further strain. Litter is not just unsightly; the remnants of cigarettes or sugary drinks could damage the porous surfaces of the monument’s stones. Overcrowding along the steep stairs holds the risk of accidents, should a child or elderly person slip and fall.

Poorly supervised youngsters mean unnecessary touching of carvings, or worse, climbing onto statues and stupas, contributing to erosion of its more fragile surfaces. Painstakingly restored in the ‘70s and ‘80s with help from UNESCO, the Borobudur temple is a grand inheritance that every Indonesian should be proud of, regardless of religion. It would be a shame to let it succumb today to modern-day tourism./TJP