NNew Year in NYC Chinatown: Culture, shopping, food

Beth J. Harpaz ,

My Travel-In preparation for the upcoming Year of the Ox, a selection of small plastic replicas of oxen are for sale in a street-side display on Mott Street in New York. (AP/Kathy Willens)

The Year of the Ox begins Jan. 26 and stores all over Chinatown are selling bright red decorations to mark the new year. But while it's easy to pick up cheap souvenirs at shops around the neighborhood, it's also worth spending a day seeking out the unfamiliar. You can sample new dishes, listen to a two-stringed fiddle called an erhu, or even visit a Buddhist temple.

Michael Moi, spokesman for the Chinatown Partnership, which was formed after the Sept. 11th attacks to promote the area and preserve local culture, encourages visitors to "open themselves up when it comes to Chinatown, and disregard preconceived notions. People recognize that Chinatown is good for good food and shopping, but there's a lot more to it. We're a cultural center, and people should bring a sense of adventure when they visit."

Dim sum restaurants, where small plates of food are offered from carts that circle the dining room, offer an easy and inexpensive way to try new dishes. Typical fare includes dumplings filled with shrimp, pork and vegetables, stuffed tofu rolls, sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves, and mildly sweet desserts like egg custard tarts and sesame seed balls with red bean paste.

Patrons check out steamy containers of dim sum at the Golden Unicorn restaurant in Chinatown in New York. (AP/Kathy Willens)

There's no shortage of dim sum places in Chinatown, but a good one that's a little tricky to find is the Golden Unicorn, at 18 E. Broadway near Catherine Street; take the elevator up to the dining room. Dim sum is served Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.- 4 p.m., and weekends beginning at 9 a.m.; most dishes are $3.75 each. The restaurant offers a regular pre-order menu for dinner. Don't be surprised if you're seated at a large round table with other customers; it's common practice in Chinatown and may inspire you to try something new recommended by your tablemate. (Bills are tallied separately.)

Gift shops are also ubiquitous in Chinatown. Wind-up toys and shiny red wall hangings spill from every other storefront along Mott Street south of Canal. But a few specialty stores are worth exploring in depth. Ten Ren Tea at 75 Mott St. sells tea that ranges from $2 a bag for regular jasmine to $144 for a pound of "King's Tea."

At 50 Mott St. you'll find Yunhong Chopsticks, a boutique that sells nothing but chopsticks, from $1.99 plastic chopsticks to $600 chopsticks made from black ebony in beautiful display cases. Some chopsticks are engraved and some are inlaid with seashells. The Yunhong company is based in China and has stores there, it also sells chopstick styles from Korea and Japan. The more expensive sets are bought for wedding and housewarming gifts.

Store manager Richard Lam says "chopsticks have a lot of culture," and he'll gladly explain the significance of any chopsticks you take a fancy to. For example, he says, traditional Chinese chopsticks are round at the bottom and square at the top to symbolize "common people on the earth and gods in the sky."

Pearl River Mart is another must for serious shoppers, even though its location at 477 Broadway north of Grand Street puts it closer to Soho than the heart of Chinatown. Look around this vast emporium for Asian goods and you'll be tempted to throw out everything you own and start over again with new home decor and a new wardrobe. Lamps shaped like Chinese takeout boxes are $18.50, silk evening bags are $8.50, richly colored cushion covers with delicate floral designs are $8.50, and sandalwood scented soaps are three for $1.25.

Some shoppers come to Pearl River with specific needs, like Mia Hockett of Burlington, Vt., who knelt in an aisle twirling parasols with her fiance Adam Blake. "We're buying parasols for our wedding next summer in Vermont," she explained.

On the other side of the neighborhood is the Mahayana Buddhist Temple at 133 Canal St. It's a busy location, near the ramp to the Manhattan Bridge and next to the Fung Wah bus stop, where college students line up for cheap tickets to Boston.

But walk past the golden lions at the entrance and inside you'll find an oasis of peace. Here worshippers light incense, leave offerings of food and flowers, and fold their hands in devout prayer to Buddha, represented by a smiling golden 16-foot-tall statue.

"They come to say 'Thank you for a wish come true,'" explained Molly Chen, who works in the temple, "or if someone in their family passes away, people ask Buddha to give them a better life in the next life." Chen said January is a busy month, as people seek good luck and protection for the new year.

The temple is open to the public. On a recent day, tourists from Holland, France and Ohio were among those buying paper fortunes for $1 and reading the story of Buddha's life in a series of illustrated signs on the walls.

Spiny durian fruit hang above a display of persimmons, oranges, tomatoes and cherries at a Chinatown market on East Broadway in New York. (AP/Kathy Willens)

Another side of Chinatown is best experienced outdoors. Many markets have open-air displays of fish, vegetables and fruit like the exotic green durian. Vendors sell bags of tiny sweet pancakes, cooked on griddles in streetcarts, for $1.50. A statue of Confucius can be found on Bowery Avenue south of Canal Street. A few blocks south of there stands a monument to Lin Zexu, who crusaded against the opium trade in the 19th century and whose statue describes him as a "pioneer in the war against drugs."

Near Mott Street, in Columbus Park, you might find seniors practicing tai chi or a man playing the erhu. He sells the instruments from a cart, $350 apiece. Look for the dragon head carved into the scroll of the neck.

Sara Delano Roosevelt Park is home to the Wah-Mei Bird Garden (near Chrystie and Broome streets), where bird owners bring their pets in ornate cages to get fresh air. On a chilly winter morning, four or five men hung cages from cross-poles there; one whistled to his bird and the creature trilled back. On a warm spring weekend, dozens of bird owners gather here.

If you're up for more than a day trip to Chinatown, check out the Best Western Bowery Hanbee Hotel at 231 Grand St. and the Holiday Inn at 138 Lafayette St. Both have rooms around $200 - a bargain for Manhattan.

You'll find a good map of the area and lots of information about things to see and do at http://www.ExploreChinatown.com . Or stop by the Official NYC Information Kiosk at the triangle of Canal, Walker and Baxter streets, 10 a.m.-6 p.m., near the Canal Street subway stops on the N, Q, R, W and 6 trains. The neighborhood is also served by the F train to East Broadway, and the D or B trains to Grand Street.

If you're visiting in late January or early February, catch some New Year's festivities. There will be lion dances on Jan. 26 and Feb. 8 in and around the neighborhood, 11 a.m.-6 p.m., and a ceremony with firecrackers Jan. 26, at noon in the Sara Delano Roosevelt Park soccer field near Canal and Forsyth streets by the Manhattan Bridge.

The Museum of Chinese in America offers New Year's Walking Tours, Jan. 17, 24 and 31, 1 p.m - 2:30 p.m., with stops for shopping and tasting. Tickets are $15 (students and seniors, $12; children under 5 free). Tours depart from 70 Mulberry St., second floor; reservations at http://www.mocanyc.org or 212-619-4785.

A New Year's parade is scheduled for Feb. 1, beginning at 1 p.m., with a route that includes Mott Street, Chatham Square, East Broadway, Allen Street, Grand Street and Chrystie Street, and a performance in Sara Delano Roosevelt Park, noon- 4 p.m.

Cantonese Opera performances are offered at the Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association, 62 Mott St., every weekend through March. The Museum of Chinese in America is sponsoring a family-oriented Lunar New Year Arts Festival, Jan. 18, noon-5 p.m. at the Children's Museum of the Arts, 182 Lafayette St., with workshops and performances in art, music, dance and theater ($10 admission).

The best areas to stay on Lombok

Lombok geographically is almost the same size as Bali and, just as there are popular tourist areas on Bali, so Lombok offers a variety of destinations to suit different holidaymakers' tastes. Following is an overview of the most popular areas to stay in Lombok.

Senggigi is the main tourist area on the mainland, with the town stretching along several fantastic bays on the west coast, and is only 20 minutes from the island's Selaparang airport. It is the ideal base from which to explore the island, and all major tourist attractions can be reached by day trips from Senggigi, including boat trips from Senggigi Bay out to the Gilis. There is a wide range of accommodations ranging from the five-star Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort to elegant private villas to comfortable small hotels and home stays. The main street in town runs parallel to the beach and is lined with restaurants, shops, banks, moneychangers and other tourist facilities. Nowhere near as developed as Kuta in Bali, Senggigi is a delightful place to stay while relaxing, dining and exploring.

Senggigi Bay is a large clean beach around which Senggigi has developed, with resorts running from the beach to the main road. The beach is a great place to hang out, sunbath and enjoy a massage, or swim and snorkel in the clear waters. The Pasar Seni (Art Market) faces onto the beach, with restaurants and bars overlooking the bay and small shops selling souvenirs, clothes and handicrafts in the market behind. The beachfront hotels and restaurants are good places to watch the magical Lombok sunsets, when the sun sinks into the ocean behind Bali, silhouetting the volcanoes against the sky.

Slightly farther north, the resort areas of Kerandangan and Mangsit offer a variety of good accommodations, including the stylish Qunci Villas, Puri Mas Boutique Resorts, Windy Beach Resort and Holiday Resort. The beaches here have white sand and clear turquoise waters and are largely deserted.

At night, there is a great range of entertainment on offer, as well as fabulous dining in some of the Senggigi restaurants. There's international fine dining, cuisines ranging from Thai, Japanese, Mexican and Korean (to name a few), or spicy local Lombok fare all on offer. A number of restaurants and bars have live entertainment with talented local bands playing popular music at night; and there are several nightclubs and discos featuring top bands, DJs and guest stars from around the nation. Senggigi caters to all types of holidaymakers - there are budget options for travelers, romantic options for couples and honeymooners, and wonderful places for families with children of all ages.

The Gili Islands are one of the most popular destinations on Lombok; every year thousands of people flock to these three small islands just off the northwest coast of Lombok. With many fast boat options such as Gili Cat and Blue Water Express providing easy transfers between the Gilis and Bali, the islands have become a popular getaway not just for overseas travelers but for those living on Bali too.

Each of the islands has a distinctively different "feel", which makes them an ideal destination for any type of traveler looking for the tropical island idyll. Gili Air is the island closest to the mainland and has a good range of accommodations, ranging from comfortable hotels to small budget home stays. The pace is very laidback, with days spent sunbathing on the clean beaches, diving in the great locations around the island and snorkeling the reefs just off shore. At night, the mood is relaxed with small warung and restaurants offering fresh seafood barbecues and local cuisine, and live music at some of the bars. Gili Meno is the middle island of the three Gilis and the quietest of the three - perfect for couples and families. The beaches are beautiful and safe for swimming, with good snorkeling just off the beach. This is the best place to see turtles in their natural environment and the dive operators on the island can help you discover the fine dive sites nearby. There are some small upmarket hotels, as well as bungalows on the beach and budget places from which to choose. If walking along a deserted beach under the stars is what you are looking for, Gili Meno has loads of atmosphere. Gili Trawangan is the most famous of the Gilis and the farthest from the mainland, although still only 10 minutes away by speedboat. Here the feel is "tropical island meets Seminyak", due to the number of upmarket eateries and villa developments that have sprung up on the island over the past couple of years. There is such a wide range of accommodation now available on Gili T (as it's known) that you can choose anything from a simple thatched bungalow on the beach to a luxury villa with private swimming pool. Dive companies abound on the island and many people come to Gili T to learn scuba diving, although the snorkeling is good and there are a number of other water activities available, including sunset cruises and glass bottom boat trips. Originally the domain of backpackers, Gili T is definitely now a place for all people - from budget travelers, to honeymooners to families. Something for everyone!

Kuta, the main tourist area on the south coast of Lombok, is not to be confused with its famous namesake in Bali. Kuta, Lombok, is a peaceful beach destination that has found fame due to the great surf locations that surround the small town. The beaches of the south coast are sublime, with sparkling white sand and clear blue oceans stretching to the horizon. Many people come to the area just to view some of the most stunning landscapes in Indonesia. Many more come to challenge the waves that roll off the peninsulas of nearby Gerupuk and Tanjung A'an.

Most of the accommodations in the area cater for the surf crowd, with lots of budget places, although there are a couple of mid-range hotels and some nice small hotels dotted along the beach toward Mandalika. The Novotel Lombok (Mandalika Resort) is located on the pristine beachfront here, and features luxurious accommodation in traditionally designed bungalows and villas.

In town are a number of good restaurants with cuisine ranging from simple local dishes to international fare, while on the hilltop overlooking the stunning coastline is the popular Ashtari Restaurant, serving delicious organic cuisine in a truly delightful setting. If you are looking for a laidback holiday location with lots of sunshine, uncrowded beaches, awe-inspiring views and plenty of accessible local culture, Kuta is the place for you!

-- Barbara Lucas Cahyadi

Barrycourt Accommodation & Event Centre

MY TRAVEL-Experience the comfortable accommodation blended with a warm hospitality and unsurpassed service at the Barry court Accommodation and Event Centre. Location Situated in the desirable downtown Parnell Residential Area, the Barry court Accommodation and Event Centre is close to various city attractions like Newmarket Shops, medical school, university, Auckland Domain and Mini Putt Golf. Rooms This property offers 107 well-appointed accommodation units that have been elegantly furnished with an array of in-room amenities to ensure you a comfortable and pleasant stay. Restaurant Guests can dine at the onsite restaurant, which serves appetising variety of food. General This hotel offers 7 well-equipped meeting rooms that can accommodate up to 300 guests for organising various important events. For your physical and mental well-being, the Barry Court Accommodation and Event Centre offers spa that can be availed during leisure. Hotel Facilities Conference facilities Internet access Laundry facilities Lounge Parking facilities Reception Restaurant Spa Room Facilities Cable / Satellite TV Hairdryer Private bathroom / Ensuite Telephone Accommodation from NZD $125. Address 10-20 Gladstone Road Parnell Auckland 1052

SKYCITY Hotel Auckland

MY TRAVEL-The Skycity Auckland offers you a unique holiday experience, with the highest standards of accommodation, cuisine and recreation. Location Located in the heart of Auckland, this property is just 20 minutes drive from the Victoria Street and about 45 minutes drive from the airport. The hotel is also close to the Harbour as well as shopping on Queen Street. Rooms The hotel offers 344 prestigious accommodation units, where its suites and guestrooms combine elegance and class with the most exclusive and modern comforts. Restaurant Guests can enjoy an exquisite dining experience at the on-site restaurants, which boasts high quality food to satisfy all type of tastes. You can also unwind in a warm friendly atmosphere with excellent drinks at the cosy bar. General At Skycity Auckland, guests can make use of the well-equipped conference room as well as the business centre. Also available on-site is a fitness centre, swimming pool and a sauna that will delight those who wish to rest after an intense day of work or sightseeing. Hotel Facilities Baby sitting service Business centre Cocktail bar Concierge Conference facilities Currency exchange Doctor on call Dry cleaning facilities Gift shop Gymnasium Laundry facilities Non-smoking rooms Outdoor swimming pool Parking facilities Reception Restaurant Room service Sauna Room Facilities Air conditioning Cable / Satellite TV Hairdryer Heating In-room safe Internet access Mini bar Modem/data port connection Private bathroom / Ensuite Radio Refrigerator Tea and coffee making facilities Telephone Accommodation from NZD $211. Additional Information 45 min drive to the Airport (Auckland) Address 90 Federal Street Auckland 1010

Seeking some rest and recreation in the hidden corner of Batam

MY TRAVEL-A little peace: Nongsa, on the coast of Batam Island, provides a place to get away from it all for a while, to enjoy comfortable resorts, water activites and restful ocean views. (JP/Simon Marcus Gower)

Let’s start by being brutally honest: At first glance, Batam Island does not really appear a great vacation proposition.

Parts of the island are best described as an eyesore, with highly utilitarian industrial and commercial premises stretching over large swathes of the land.

And let’s be frank about the land itself, too – flat for one thing, with soil – exposed through the island’s numerous excavations – in an unappealing orangey-yellowish color that looks infertile and grubby.

Now we’ve got that out of the way, there is one more thing to add: Better things lie ahead.

As you travel from the island’s Hang Nadim airport to the area known as Nongsa, the industrial and commercial buildings – and that grubby-looking soil – gradually give way to dense thickets of shrubs and low-lying plants.

Keep going. This unkempt shrubbery then gives way to something else – to signs of humanity taming this wilderness and making it into something lovely and fresh. You have arrived at the dreamy vacation area of Nongsa, Nongsa is in the northern coastal region of Batam Island, with attractive inlets and beaches that add up to an idyllic and tranquil setting for some rest and recreation. There are golf courses here for those so interested, but it is much more the coast, the beaches and the resorts along the waterfront that attract visitors.

The resorts at Nongsa range from the pristine and ultramodern to the more traditional and tropical made from timber and bamboo with thatched roofs. Some of the modern architecture is impressive but those who find all that concrete and steel clinical and cold with may prefer the more “traditional” architecture with its natural materials.

Regardless of the style of architecture, the common theme here is the sea and the Strait of Singapore that Nongsa looks out onto. The shores and skyscrapers of Singapore are visible in the distance – no prizes for guessing why Singaporeans account for many of the holidaymakers.

Singapore is but a 45-minute ferry ride away, making it all too easy for those city-dwellers to escape their crowded city-state for the tranquility of Batam’s resort, the ferry dropping them at the very well-constructed and -managed ferry terminal known as Nongsapura.

Thanks to Nongsapura, getting to and from the resorts is easy and comfortable, with ferries setting off at regular intervals to destinations in both Singapore and Malaysia. These speedy ferries deftly negotiate busy waters, weaving around the huge cargo ships and tankers that pass through the strait. Before all that, though, comes the Nongsa River.

The Nongsa River connects the island to the strait. Like much of the rest of Batam Island, it is surrounded by dense vegetation, which lends it a distinctly wild air. Trips upriver to view exotic birds and wild monkeys are possible, although most people find it hard to drag themselves away from the coast.

One of those coastal attractions is Nongsa’s impressive and expansive marina open to private vessels. Otherwise, there are plenty of watery activities to help while away the holidays: fishing, snorkeling, parasailing, water-skiing, jet-skiing and banana boating.

The downside of all these water activities is the water itself – or more particularly the clarity of the water. It is perhaps only to be expected that with this strait being a major marine thoroughfare – dozens of massive ships pass through the Strait and often time clouds of exhaust fumes can be seen belching from their enormous engines – the water is going to be on the murky side of pristine.

The problem of pollution is also evident in the work of the cleaners raking the beaches each morning, burying the less desirable offerings that have been washed up on the shore.

Never mind – there is no need to swim in the sea, as the resorts all have their own swimming pools replete with fountains and waterfalls, and a mix of depths to please everyone from children and the more serious swimmer. Given this, the sea may be better left alone as a backdrop for the resorts.

Otherwise, the environment in Nongsa is generally clean and well kept, creating great benefits for the local wildlife. In the thick lush forests, visitors can see exotic and colorful birds going about their business of foraging and nesting. At night, bats sweep across the sky, gorging themselves on the abundant fruit hanging from the trees.

Nongsa and its resorts may be quite different from the rest of Batam Island, but are created ideally for rest and recreation. The detail in the construction and management of the hotels and resorts means taking a vacation here can be very pleasing and satisfying – regardless of first impressions./TJP

Traveling into China’s Past

MY TRAVEL-The gate to the Li Garden estate. JP/Kurniawan Hari

China today is a modern country, after rapid infrastructure development in almost every city.

In Beijing, the construction of the Bird’s Nest stadium and the Water Cube aquatic center for last year’s Olympic Games is nothing less than hard evidence of its economic might.

In Guangzhou, a city in southern China, we can also witness the robust economy, as seen from the massive construction of public facilities such as highways and bridges, not to mention skyscrapers.

Despite its modernity, China is admirable for its strong devotion to the preservation of its culture and traditions. Several journalists from Southeast Asia were recently invited to look at China’s glorious past and natural beauty.

Our tour guide Thomas Shau jumped out of the bus that took us from downtown Guangzhou in southern China to Kaiping City, about 140 kilometers to the southwest.

After talking with people at the ticket booth, Thomas shouted to us, “This way, please! This way, please!” This was heard repeatedly on our trip as he was worried we may get separated which might disrupt the tight schedule.

On that sunny day, Thomas had brought us to Li Garden to see the attractions and beautiful old buildings in the estate belonging to the wealthy family. Covering an area of more than one hectare, the complex consists of a man-made lake, narrow canals, hills and old buildings of outstanding architectural interest.

The area was built between 1926 and 1936 by Xie Wei Li, a Chinese man who migrated to the United States. After he became wealthy, he returned to China and built the houses and spacious garden later known as Li Garden. The property combines exotic Chinese gardens with the charm of Western architecture.

An old man demonstrates how to make pottery with the help of his young apprentice. JP/Kurniawan Hari

In the complex, all the houses, some multi-story, are alike architecturally and share similar amenities. The windows are protected by four different coverings; the outer part is an iron panel, followed by iron bars, mosquito nets and then a wood panel.

“They used extra safety measures because they wanted to defend themselves from Japanese invaders. One window was damaged when the Japanese tried to pry it open,” Thomas said, pointing to a damaged window.

The houses are special because there is a kitchen on each floor. Thomas explained that the kitchen allowed the inhabitants to still cook meals when the lower floors were inundated by floods.

The entrance to the rather grand garden has a stone-arched gate which declares the residency of the Li family in two large, handwritten Chinese characters meaning “Li Garden”. The garden incorporates a walk-in aviary, a small lake and a flower pavilion along with numerous trees and plants.

Standing erect in the garden are two steel poles called the “tiger whip” which were built to scare away evil spirits.

As many of us were still enjoying the breeze in this subtropical region, Thomas ordered us to gather and get on the bus.

A brick house in Zili Village in Kaiping. JP/Kurniawan Hari

“It’s time to go and see Zili Village,” he said.

Zili Village is only minutes away from Li Garden to the northeast. As our bus stopped in front of the gate, we got out and went to the old village on foot. With a dry landscape, dirty ponds and old brick houses, frankly, the village does not provide a feast for the eyes.

To ignore this place, however, would be a mistake as we have lessons to learn from this old village, which was inscribed on the list of UNESCO’s World Cultural Heritage sites in 2007.

Located in Tangkou Town, still in Kaiping City, the village consists of three sub-villages constructed between 1821 and 1920. There is a cluster of nine towers known as Diaolou and a group of six Western-style villas, along with single-story houses built of brick and with tiled roofs among the rice fields.

The nine Diaolou are Anlou, Juanlou, Longshenglou, Mingshilou, Quianjulou, Yinonglou, Yunhualou, Zhenanlou and Shulinglou. They were built around the same time in the 1920s by prosperous Chinese emigrants returning to their roots from the United States and elsewhere.

Although different in ornamental detail, the Diaolou are all built of reinforced concrete and are similar in concept: five or six stories high with a balustrade-equipped terrace at the lowest level and arcaded loggias at the top level to catch the breeze.

We had the opportunity of entering one Diaolou, Mingshilou, and climbed to the rooftop. Similar to the buildings at Li Garden, the Diaolou at Zili Village also applied extra security measures. There are two holes above the main door through which the inhabitants can peep to identify anyone knocking on the door.

“If the inhabitants know the identity of the guest, they will open the door and welcome them. But, if they don’t know, they will shoot them through the holes,” Thomas said.

The beautiful man-made waterfall decorates the Shiwan Ceramic Museum. JP/Kurniawan Hari

The furniture and interior decoration show visitors that those who lived in the Diaolou were extremely wealthy families. The beauty of the old standing clock, the chandelier, the paintings and sculptures would impress all visitors. They present a complete picture of the success and aspirations of the returning Chinese emigrants.

The next day, Thomas accompanied us to Xiqiao Hill, which he described as having breathtaking scenery. He said the hill had been hailed as a tourist resort by numerous literati and travelers since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, about 600 years ago.

Xiqiao Hill is about a one-hour drive or 45 kilometers from Guangzhou to the north. The natural beauty of several peaks, caves, rock formations and waterfalls has won the hill “National Forest Park” status from the state government.

On this trip, we visited the former residence of Huang Fei Hong, the martial arts master, a house where literary figures like Zan Ruoshui, He Yunshan, Kang Youwei and Liang Qichao studied Confucianism.

As well as visiting these historic places, our bus took us to the hilltop to see the fascinating giant statue of Guanyin. At 61.9 meters tall, it is the world’s biggest seated Guanyin statue. She is seated in the full lotus position, holding a vial of elixir in her left hand and making a gesture of blessing with her right.

In between the steps leading up to the statue, visitors can see beautiful sculpted reliefs, some of them telling stories in the Buddhist tradition.

The candles are used for prayers in front of the Guanyin statue, located more than 500 meters away. JP/Kurniawan Hari

Leaving the Nanhai Guanyin Cultural Park, we visited the Zumiao Temple or the Temple of the Ancestors. The name simply means that the site is the oldest temple in town. The most interesting feature of the temple is its rich ceiling decorations that show many Chinese figures and creatures.

Our next stop was the Nanfeng Ancient Kiln in Shiwan, the hometown of the ceramic industry. Built during the Ming Dynasty in the 1500s, its wood fire has lasted for 500 years, and it is still producing ceramics in the original way.

As we were visiting the kiln, an old man showed us how to make pottery with the help of his young apprentice, who turned the pottery wheel by means of his right foot. Within few minutes, the man had created a vase, which was removed from the wheel using a strong cord before being put into the kiln.

Walking through narrow corridors, we arrived at the Shiwan Ceramics Museum, where we saw displays of ancient ceramic collections with various designs and the history of the kiln.

The Borneo Post editor Harry Anak Julin who was on the tour expressed his admiration of the creativity and artistic skill the Chinese people possess.

“I would like to spend one or two more days here to learn about the pottery making process,” he said.

At the end of the tour, we came across another stunning view: It was of a man-made waterfall created from hundreds of pieces of colorful pottery pots over which a steady stream of sparkling water flowed.

Its stunning beauty highlights the creativity of Chinese people from the past to the present.

— Photos by Kurniawan Hari

Borobudur at the crossroads

(JP/Sunita Sue Leng)

MY TRAVEL-The best time to visit Borobudur Temple is at dawn. That is when Central Java’s magnificent World Heritage monument is enveloped in cool mist and peace.

That is when you will be able to climb the ancient stones in near solitude and be rewarded with a view of the candi’s rotund stupas – 72 in total – rising majestically out of the mist with the first rays of the sun.

Of course, you don’t actually have Borobudur to yourself. When I went, I was surprised to find 20 to 30 others on the highest terrace of the monument, waiting impatiently for the sun to come up.

They were mostly foreign tourists, some with fancy cameras on tripods, some with little children. However, it was relatively quiet and I felt very fortunate to be able to visit this historic gem in such serene circumstances.

This was my second visit to Borobudur, and how different it was from the first. I had come the day before and made the mistake of coming on a Sunday. The entrance at the foot of the monument was already buzzing with people eager to set foot on the monument and as I looked across the length of Borobudur Park, I could see a never-ending stream of people making their way toward the entrance.

Borobudur at dawn – quiet and peaceful (JP/Sunita Sue Leng)

Once past the entrance, it was quite a challenge trying to navigate the stairways. The narrow stone stairways were choc-a-bloc with people, so climbing was a slow process, often with a view of nothing else but someone else’s posterior. When I got to the top, several visitors, mostly teenagers or children, were seated on top of the stupas, despite signs forbidding visitors to do so.

Strewn across the floors of Borobudur’s many terraces was litter – cigarette butts, empty bottles of mineral water, plastic bags. The few dustbins that were available were already full to the brim. It was not a pretty sight.

According to the authorities, Borobudur gets about 2.5 million visitors a year, the bulk of whom are Indonesians. When I went, schools were on their year-end break so a high proportion of the visitors that day were large groups of excited students on school outings. The rest were mostly families from neighboring provinces who had come on holiday, and a handful of foreign tourists accompanied by their guides (or guidebooks).

Litter along the terraces of Borobudur could damage the porous surfaces of the ancient stones (JP/Sunita Sue Leng)

It is comforting to know that so many people make the effort to visit Borobudur. After all, the monument is a present-day window to Indonesia’s glorious past. It is also an enduring memento of the advanced level of craftsmanship that prevailed in Java at a time when Western Europe was struggling through its Dark Ages.

Built in the eighth and ninth centuries, Borobudur houses a staggering 2,672 relief panels, many exquisitely detailed, as well as 504 Buddha statues. At the summit, a gigantic central stupa rests on a massive lotus-shaped base half a meter thick, making this the largest Buddhist stupa in the world.

Borobudur is a place of pilgrimage for those of the Buddhist faith. Its passages were designed for monks to circumambulate the edifice in silent prayer. Along the lower square terraces, they would be flanked by carvings such as the biography of the Lord Buddha, from his descent from heaven until his enlightenment, which is depicted on the main wall of the first gallery.

As they ascended to the higher circular terraces, they would be surrounded by unembellished stone walls, representing Buddhism’s Sphere of Formlessness. Above them, the main stupa – which is empty, signifying Nirvana – would soar into the sky. Today, Buddhist rituals are still carried out at Borobudur on auspicious days such as Waisak.

On top of this, Borobudur lies amid great natural beauty. As I stood atop the candi’s highest tier, I was almost eye to eye with Mount Merapi, the still-active volcano that soars 2,911 meters in the northeast. It was wrapped in fluffy clouds, while on the ground, green rice paddies stretched for miles.

Children climbing one of the stupas (JP/Sunita Sue Leng)

On the western and southern edges, the Menoreh hills rose and fell. This is the geographical center of Java. Called the Kedu Plain, it is also known as the Garden of Java as it has been made unusually fertile and lush by volcanic earth and the intersection of two rivers, the Progo and the Elo.

Little wonder, then, that so many are drawn to Borobudur, which is already under threat, even without the crowds. According to the Borobudur Heritage Conservation Institute, acid rain has damaged some of the carvings, while global warming could cause more fissures and cracks in the monument’s stones.

The growing number of tourists to Borobudur, which is managed by PT Taman Wisata Candi Borobudur, Prambanan and Ratu Boko, add further strain. Litter is not just unsightly; the remnants of cigarettes or sugary drinks could damage the porous surfaces of the monument’s stones. Overcrowding along the steep stairs holds the risk of accidents, should a child or elderly person slip and fall.

Poorly supervised youngsters mean unnecessary touching of carvings, or worse, climbing onto statues and stupas, contributing to erosion of its more fragile surfaces. Painstakingly restored in the ‘70s and ‘80s with help from UNESCO, the Borobudur temple is a grand inheritance that every Indonesian should be proud of, regardless of religion. It would be a shame to let it succumb today to modern-day tourism./TJP

Lost in medina antiquity

A road leading to Bou Said Village, a MY TRAVEL--famous hill-top tourist destination near Tunis. All homes are blazing white and decorated with intense blue on the windows, doors, verandahs and balconies. (JP/Pandaya)

Three-hour's bus journey from Tunis to heartland in the south of Tunisia took us to Kairouan, a town built in 670 AD which was the center of country until the 12th century.

Kairouan prides itself as an education and cultural center, but what makes the town special is that it was the first place Islam took off in Tunisia.

The city's founders had learned from the doomed city of Carthage on the northern coast, that seaside cities were vulnerable to invasions from the Mediterranean sea. So Kairouan was built further inland, some 50 kilometers from the coast.

We explored Kairouan's world-famous medina (non-European part of a north African city), where Islam first came to Tunisia and spread into northern Africa.

In the medina and in much of Kairouan, everything looks ancient: the buildings, the souk (Northern Africa or Middle Eastern market), the alleys and the culture.

Kairouan is reputed as the forth holy city in Islam -- alongside Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. Locals say if you go to Kairouan seven times, it is equivalent to making a haj pilgrimage to Mecca. My God! I still have another six visits to go!

Unlike in the modern Tunis, which is very much a "European" city, Kairouan apparently lacks symbols of modernity.

The most important attraction in the Kairouan medina is the vast Sidi Oqba -- the Grand Mosque named after an Arab general who founded Kairouan -- and, of course, the colorful souk. In this quarter you can find anything from locally made carpets and tapestry to silverware.

A minaret in Tunis medina, which boasts numerous mosques and souks (marketplaces) in a vast complex with a seemingly endless network of alleyways running through it. (JP/Pandaya)

The massive but plain grand mosque is illuminated with intricate chandeliers which give it a sacred atmosphere. Visitors can take a peek inside but are forbidden from going past a velvet rope.

A curious attraction is Bir Barauta, an enclosed fountain where a blindfolded camel drives a water wheel. The camel at work is a must see (pun unintended). Can you imagine coming all the way to Tunisia without touching a camel?

Legend has it that this well communicates with the Zemzem spring in Mecca. Ah, and don't forget to drink a mug of fresh water that the big gentle animal draws from the well. Who knows, your wish may be granted.

The overly pushy traders (who can also be found in such places as Kuta Beach and Borobudur, Indonesia) are often annoying. Some will insist on taking you to their tapis (carpet) factory, saying "no problem if you don't buy".

The tourist guide also claims the more complex medina of Tunis is a must see -- a claim I found was fair enough on my visit there the following day.

From the moment I set foot in the medina of Tunis, I was overwhelmed with the sights and sounds of this ancient city: old-fashioned palaces, undulating chants of prayer calls, the mosques, strong smells emanating from spice shops -- and those colorful doors.

Friendly traders in the souk make you fell at home, smiling and guessing your nationality with their knowledge of foreign words, like "konnichiwa" or "nihao?" if you look East Asian. If you are white, they will address you in French, or in English if you don't react ... and then in German if you still look baffled.

I got a warm hug (or two) for being Indonesian, a nation with whom they have a high regard for some reason -- probably history and the countries' shared main religion.

Visitors who venture without guides can easily become lost in the Tunis medina's seemingly endless narrow twisting alleyways -- while blissfully unaware because there is so much to see, especially for those interested in cultural heritage. This eclectic area was the core of 7th-century Tunis, whose sturdy old-fashioned walls are reminiscent of the Yogyakarta Tamansari complex.

The Tunis medina lures tourists as a place which has retained its ancient cultural diversity -- and yet still functioning as a bustling commercial center. While the rest of Tunis, like other big cities around the world, are crowded with modern western-style shopping malls, one can still find artisans at work in its medina, and they aren't just there to entertain tourists -- their wares are for sale. These artisans make everything on site, from leather goods to silver lamps, using traditional techniques and tools.

Here, too, are well-preserved symbols of early Islamic splendor, including the awesome Zitouna Grand Mosque (also known as Mosque of the Olive) smaller mosques (all with towering minarets), the Kasbah and the citadel. And madrasah Islamic schools have been here since the medina was founded.

Tunis's most important building, Zitouna, is honored as it once housed notable scientists who taught there, such as Ali Ibn Ziyad (in the 8th century) and Imam Ibn Arafa (in the 14th century). Rebuilt in 1894, Zitouna stands out with its 44-meter-tall minaret.

The narrow intertwining alleyways are lined with covered shops selling various wares -- all manufactured by local artisans -- including fabrics, carpets, silver lamps, jewelry, leather cowboy hats and perfume. And what is great about shopping in the souk is that visitors can test their haggling prowess.

Merchants are generally friendly. They will laugh merrily if you haggle too low and patiently ask you to raise your price.

The medina is also home to numerous marvelous palaces including the 18th century Dar Hussein with its beautiful courtyard and the Bardo Palace with treasures from the antiquity.

On exiting the ancient quarter from the eastern main gate, one arrives on De France Avenue feeling like a character out of Back to the Future (after traveling through time). Just outside the medina is the modern European-style city that was built by the French who arrived in Tunisia in 1881.

Not surprisingly, within this perimeter, all Tunisia's roads bear French names. A walking distance from the Avenue De France is Avenue Habib Bourguiba, Tunis's main thoroughfare linking the Old City with the Little Sea.

The Avenue Habib Bourguiba area is a neatly designed new town for government offices, embassies, hotels, theaters and spacious leafy parks. Somewhat out of place in this Islamic country is Cathedral St. Vincent de Paul which was built by the French in 1882 (just one year after their arrival, suggesting their intention of staying). Locals love to say that all but foreign nationals are Muslim.

A stroll down the avenue will give you a glimpse of Tunisia's diverse cultures. The wide sidewalks are bustling with French-style cafes, but only a few of them serve wine or beer. These places are hangout places for townsfolk, who spend hours sipping coffee and shooting the breeze with buddies there.

A cup of coffee costs around 3 Tunisian dinar, or about US$2. Often, townsfolk share a drink with friends as a token of friendship.

Another place not to be missed in Tunisia is the blue-and-white village of Sidi Bou Said. 12 kilometers from Tunis, this lovely village is perched on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Tunis.

The beautiful Sidi Bou Said attracts tourists, who appreciate its landscape, as well as super-wealthy Tunisians who reside or build holiday houses in this affluent suburb -- which is not far from Carthage, the famed ruins of a Phoenician city.

As the bus climbs past Carthage, visitors get a glimpse of the wide blue bay below. The marina is awesome with its white sails of boats arriving and departing.

Sidi Bou Said village originally grew serving Muslims who were making their pilgrimage to the tomb of the 13th century sufi, Sidi Bou Said.

In this leafy tourist haven, the dominant whites and blues simmer under the Mediterranean sun when viewed from afar. Visitors are quickly bewildered in its labyrinth of narrow roads with breathtaking flowery gardens and upscale mansions.

Every building bears the village's signature colors: bright white walls and staircases, and everything else in vivid blue. Larger doors are painted yellow, white or red.

Sidi Bou Said has, since the 19th century, been attracting painters from European countries to visit, or even to build their studios there. Painter Soro Lo Turco of Italy has a studio and gallery here. Such great artists as Colette, Simone de Beauvoir and Andr* Gide are several others who have fallen under its spell.

Lake Maninjau

MY TRAVEL-The Maninjau caldera was formed by a volcanic eruption estimated to have occurred around 52,000 years ago.^[1] Deposits from the eruption have been found in a radial distribution around Maninjau extending up to 50 km to the east, 75 km to the southeast, and west to the present coastline. The deposits are estimated to be distributed over 8500 km² and have a

Lake Maninjau has an area of 99.5 km², being approximately 16 km long and 7 km wide. The average depth is 105 m, with a maximum depth of 165 m. The natural outlet for excess water is the Antokan river, located on the west side of the lake. It is the only lake in Sumatra which has a natural outlet to the west coast. Since 1983 this water has been used to generate hydroelectric power for West Sumatra.

Most of the people who live around Lake Maninjau are ethnically Minangkabau. Villages on the shores of the lake include Maninjau and Bayur.

Maninjau is a notable tourist destination in the region due to its scenic beauty and mild climate. It is also used as a site for paragliding.

The lake is used for aquaculture, using karamba floating net cages. The technique was introduced in 1992, and by 1997 there were over 2,000 cage units with over 600 households engaged. Each cage may have 3-4 production cycles each year. There is evidence of pollution around some karamba area.

On the edge of the lake, the landuse includes rice fields in the swamps and the lower slopes. The villages are bordered uphill by a large belt of forestlike tree gardens, which dissolves into the upper montane forest on the steepest parts of the slopes up to the ridge of the caldera.^[3]

The tree gardens include three typical components:^[3]

• Fruit trees including durian, jack fruit, cempedak, rambutan, langsat, golden berries and water apples.
• Timber species including Toona sinensis and Pterospermum javanicum.
• Spice trees including cinnamon, coffee, nutmeg and cardamum.

Parang Tritis Beach

MY TRAVEL--Parang tritis beach located about 27 kilometers from Yogyakarta. Parangtritis is an enchanting sloping beach combined with rocky hills, dunes and white sandy beach.

Beside being famous as recreational spot. there also a sacred place. Many people come to the beach to do meditation.
In the western part of Parangtritis, Labuan ceremony is held every year in Parangkusomo beach.

Local people believe that the beach is the meeting place between the kings of Mataram and Kanjeng Ratu Kidul, the Goddess of the south sea.

Above Parangtritis in the direction of Panggang, you can find Gambirowati Plateau
This spot provides very beautiful view of endless horizon. Another attraction place near Parangtritis beach is Langse Cave.
Langse Cave located in the eastern side of Parangtritis and used to be a meditation place too.
The mouth of the cave is under a steep clifd, facing the open sea.

In south of Yogyakarta you can found many beautiful beaches. There are Baron Beach (about 60 kilometers from Yogyakarta), Krakal beach (9 kilometers from Baron beach), Wediombo Beach (eastern side of Krakal Beach), Glagah beach (40 kilometers south west of Yogyakarta) and Congot Beach (45 kilometers of Yogyakarta) at the western side of Glagah beach.

BUKITTINGGI A TOURIST TOWN

MY TRAVEL-Having cool and pleasant climate with interesting view of the Sianok canyon. Bukittinggi is visited by many visitors all year round. Leaders and scientists both from home and broad held comfrences Tri Arga, Convention Hall of Hatta, and Convention hall of Hatta’s Library.

Bukittinggi is the center of Tourism in West Sumatera completed by hotel, restaurant and Souvenir Shops. The last information of tourist information office Bukittinggi is visited by 200.000 tourist each year.

The shopping center Pasar Atas was on fire in 1968 drugstores and book stores burned off. The famous “ loos Galung “ with its steel construction buildt in 1850 by Dutch government was also burned “ Right after the accident the the government rebuilt the shops and other facilities, therefore, in 1970 president Soeharto inaugrated the new reestablished market.

The bus station in Aur Kuning was built in 1980 and at the same time some facilities for shopping were also built. In short the new market palce was built.

Hundred meters from Pasar Atas, on Jln. Cindua mato, Mr. Skalleg, a Dutch, established a zoo on Bukit Malambuang completed with a Minangkabau traditional house with two rice store houses in front of it The Traditional house also functions as a museum containing Minangkabau antiques and historical articles.Bukittinggi is small town located in a plateau at the feet of Mt.Merapi and Mt.singgalang . there are about twenty hills in the town ; Bukit Malambung, Cubadak Bungkuk, Labuh Babalik, Sangkuik, Ciik Anjing, Kandang Kabau, Sarang Gagak, Located Around “Pasar Atas”.The hills next to Anak Air and Mandiangin are Bukit Campago, Mandiangin, paruik natung, guguk bulek, and the last group are bukit pauh, lampasa, ponggok, palolok mantari tujuh etc. Hence, this lovely little town called “Bukittinggi” meaning high hills or hilly town.

The first inhabitants of the town according to the legend were the Kurai tribe who came to Bukittinggi from Batu Sangkar by Koto Baru and Banuhampu, it is believed by the people of Kurai and Banuhampu that they practice the same customes. The second group came from Batu Sangkar via Baso near Tanjung Alam, they took arrest in padang Kurai in Baso. Later they walked forward to Tigo Baleh Bukittinggi.

The people of Kurai embrace Islam and at the same time they pratice Minangkabau culture as well as the people through out Minangkabau. The coming of European at the beginning of nineteenth century distrurbed the stillness of the society. On July 16, 1818 Thomas St. raffles inspected Minangkabau which had been visited by Dutch before. It was the beginning of the conflicts.

The coming of several Imams from Mecca namely Tuanku Nan Renceh, Tuanku Piobang, Haji Miskin and Haji Pamansiangan made renewal in religious faith; they refused to accept some types of customs related to the Hinduism like cock fighting, gambling and so on. The conflicts between Panghulu and the Imams invited Ducth soldiers. In 1825 Dutch soldiers esta-blished fortress on Bukit Labuh Babalik on which the office town secretary and government offices were built later. In 1854, the Chinese and Indians arrived in Bukittinggi. It was beginning of town establishment.

In 1890 the secretary of the town the secretary of the town spent as much as f.4,000 to import steel contruction for “ Loos Galung “ building facing Janjang Ampek Puluh in Pasar Atas.

In 1990 the town government borrowed money from Bank of the Nederlands Indies as much as f.12,000, for building the facilities on Pasar Lereng, therefore, each owner of the shop should pay f.1, every year.

In 1915 the town hall was built near the Zoo; the secretary of the town was administered here. There was building beside this building used for storing salt. The places for selling coconuts, fishes and other food materials were built in the same year.

There was an agreement between controller Van Hangel with Laras Agam Tuo to establish a building for heads og Nagari Agam Tuo. Bukittinggi and Agam leaders worked hand in hand in building Bukittinggi market.

The town secretary H.E.Prins imported the contruction from Europe costing f.15,000 The steel contruction was for building some market places in Pasar Bawah for selling rice, coconuts and vegetables. Later there was an agreement between the town secretary with Laras IV Koto, laras Banuhampu sungai Puar dan Laras IV Angkek to work together in developing the newly established market; and the town secretary agreed to build an office on Pasar Atas. They agreed to distribute the taxes collected to those villages which were also called Agam Tuo. This happened in 1907.

Later the leaders of Kurai refused the distribution of the tax, then, they wrote a letter to West Sumatera Resident A.K Derx in 1918, to Resident J.D.I.Libre in 1919, and to Resident J.H.Liefrink also in 1919.
After the Indonesia independence, Bukittinggi was the palce for struggle movement activities. In 1945 Bukittinggi was capital of Sumatera, and in 1949 Bukittinggi was oppointed the Capital of Indonesia because Jogyakarta was accupied by Dutch soldiers and the late President Soekarno and the late Vice President Moh. Hatta were in jail.

Mount Rinjani Trekking

Impian monalisa-Mount Rinjani (3726 m) is part of Rinjani National Park (RNP), and the third highest mountain peak in Indonesia. It's actually still an active volcano. Its last eruption was in 1910. It's not only a recommended choice for mountain hikers, but also a sacred place to both, Balinese and native Sasak people. A sacred mountain, which believed as a place with indefinable mysteries. Like other National Parks, it's an interesting place for those whoe are interested in natural heritage environment and ecology. With its huge rainforest, considered as a unique laboratories of evolution and havens of biodiversity. As an active volcano Mt. Rinjani, is a potential place for geological research and has given contribution to science development. A mountaineering sportclub with years of experience offers your package programmes to explore a great creation of nature. This trekking tour programs have been created by our experienced mountaineers and give your some choice to be part of nature or just enjoying its magical. If your are hikers, Mt. Rinjani is a must ! Yet we fail it everyday in countless ways. Mankind ownes the nature the best it has to give. WARNING All activity which may cause serious damage to nature and considered as potential threat to the ecosystem and environment is forbidden. We do appreciate your cooperation to protect our Mount Rinjani National Park from pollution physical habitat degradation and other forms of environment degradations.

Borobudur Temple

MY TRAVEL-Borobudur temple is the biggest stupa ever created on earth. It was built in the most glorious time of the Syailendra dynasty.

Borobudur Temple is one of the greatest Buddhist monuments in the world. This colossal relic of Borobudur Temple was built by Sailendra dynasty between 750 and 842 AD; 300 years before Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, 400 years before work had begun on the great European cathedrals. Little is known about its early history except that a huge tropical heat to shift and carve the 60,000 Cu m of stone.Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles revealed Borobudur Temple in 1814.

He found the temple in ruin condition and ordered that the site be cleared of undergrowth and thoroughly surveyed. The massive restoration project began from 1905 to 1910 led by Dr. Tb. van Erp. With the help of UNESCO, the second restoration to rescue Borobudur was carried out from August 1913 to 1983.The overall height of Borobudur was 42 meters, but it is only 34.5 meters now (after restoration), and has the dimension of 123 x 123 meters. The building has 10 floors or levels: Hhumtcambharabudara, the mountain of the accumulation of virtue in the ten stages of Bodhisatva. Borobudur is located 41 km northwest of Yogyakarta, 7 km south of Magelang, Central Java.

KUTA BEACH and SOUTH LOMBOK

MY TRAVEL-The best-known place on the south coast is Lombok's Kuta Beach (Sometime spelt Kute Beach) a magnificent stretch of white sand and blue sea with rugged hills rising around it, famous for its surfing spots.

Kuta Beach Lombok attract visitors for its beautiful virgin beaches and surfing spots. Surfers from all over the world find Kuta Lombok as a surfer paradise. South coast of Lombok is famous for the high waves and Kuta Lombok is a good base for the surfers.

Many visitors come back year after year to surf the famous Kuta waves. Whether you are an experienced surfer or a beginner you will find the surf spot for you. Surf boards & boogie boards are available to rent or bring your own. You will need transport to the waves from Kuta, most guests choose to rent motorcycles which come with a special surf rack attached.

The new International Airport is now being developed and big plans to develop a whole stretch of the superb south coast with luxury hotels. After many years of speculation there are signs something is happening, with the road from Praya completely remade and big new road running to as yet undeveloped beaches. Meanwhile, Kuta and South Lombok is now getting famous and raise visitor's curiosity.

HOW TO GET THERE

1. Public Transportation from Mataram to Kuta

Take a minibus from the bus terminal (Mandalika) to Praya, then swift to bemo to Sengkol, then swift another bemo to Kuta. Prices are change every year especially the "Fuel Raise" in Indonesia also affect the land transportation fares. Tips: use your negotiation skills before entering the car, as if they see tourist, they charge double or even unrealistic fare.

2. Shuttle Bus

To eliminate hassle and bustle, shuttle bus could be one of a good option, eventhough travel time can be long because the bus will have many stop over dropping and picking up other passangers from their hub/offices in main tourist attraction like Senggigi or Bangsal Harbour.

3. Taxi Service

This could be another good option. Metered taxi available upon request or just waive your hand and tell them where to go. It could be pricy for a long distance journey.

4. Private Pick Up & Transfer Service

This could be one of the best option if you wish to enjoy your holiday without hassle and bustle. You can pre-book a private transfer service to reputable local tour operator at a reasonable rates or contact Lombok Network Holidays for an assistance by phone: +62 370 6628139, or SMS: +62 81 8369619. Traveling in the group and share the fares will make it even much cheaper. Source:http://www.lombok-network.com/kuta/

Baku: An exciting place to explore

MY TRAVEL-Are you looking for a new exotic place to explore? Do you want to see features of both Asian and European cultures in one city? Do you want to see a city where Muslims, Jews and Christians live in harmony? Then Azerbaijan's capital Baku -- the pearl of the Caspian Sea -- is the place for you.

Azerbaijan, a small but oil-rich country in the South Caucasus, is the new kid on the block of the world tourism industry.

More than 90 percent of its population is Shiite Muslim. It is not, however, an orthodox country. It has one of the most modern, secular, liberal, tolerant and open societies in the Islamic world.

"We had a very difficult period of being unknown in the world tourism market due to the situation in Nagorno-Karabakh," Azerbaijan's Minister of Culture and Tourism, Abulfas Qarayev, told The Jakarta Post recently.

Nagorno-Karabakh, an Azerbaijan territory, was seized by Armenian troops in a 1990s war.

Azerbaijan's beauty, richness, culture and ultimately its geostrategic position -- a juncture on the Great Silk Road, between the Mediterranean, Caspian, Black and Azov seas -- has attracted various tribes, travelers, invaders, traders and missionaries throughout history. More recent patrons include oil companies and even film director Michael Apted, who shot parts of the 1999 Bond film The World is not Enough here.

In this former Soviet Union state of 8.7 million people, Baku has everything.

"It was a surprise for me. Baku looks like more an European city than an Asian one," Laura Shuurmans, a Jakarta-based free-lance writer, said recently.

A city rich in culture and history, Baku has unique and varied architecture -- ranging from grand mansions with Roman and Gothic themes to a walled old city complete with cobbled streets, narrow alleys, ancient buildings and interesting historical places.

As in any other ancient city, the best and easiest way is to explore Baku is on foot. While in Baku, there is one place you will go to, more than once. In Baku all roads lead to Fountain Square. If it is dining and shopping you're after, or simply looking to meet up with friends and enjoy the night life, head to Fountain Square. It's the most popular place in the city for locals and visitors alike.

Built in the 1860s by the famous Azerbaijani architect Hajibababeyov (1811-1874), Fountain Square is home to numerous Western-style shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. Here you can find street hawkers and a playground for children: It's the spot to hang out. It's on Sunday evenings however, that the square really comes alive. A parade of beautiful Azeri girls hit the town and everybody wants to be there.

Baku or Baki (which means a city of winds in the Azeri language) is in fact comprised of three cities -- the old town (Cheri Shekher), the boom town and the Soviet-built town.

Tourists will find the walled old town, a world heritage site, the most interesting as all the major attractions of Baku are found here.

Baku's landmark Maiden's Tower, a key shapped medieval tower, stands tall on the shore of Caspian Sea. The tower is a place worth seeing in Baku city. (JP/Veeramalla Ajaiah)

Every city has its landmark and for Baku it's Maiden's Tower, a medieval tower with a strange keyhole shape. Built as a guard tower and observatory in 12th century, Maiden's Tower or Kiz Kulesi is worth seeing. There are many stories to explain how it was named, the most accepted being that a maiden committed suicide by jumping from the top. Local people told us that distressed people still sometimes repeat maiden's act.

A set of stairs will take you to the top of the tower, which, at a height of more than 30 meters will provide good exercise. From the top you will find the best view of Baku and the Caspian Sea.

But beware of the biting wind, which comes rolling off the rough Caspian Sea and sweeps through the city's streets.

The Shirvanshah's Palace, a 15th century royal palace, is a must see tourist site in Baku. (JP/Veeramalla Ajaiah)

Another of Baku's historical attractions is the Shirvanshah's Palace, a 15th century royal palace with a mosque, minaret and mausoleum.

On our way to Shirvanshah's Palace, there were numerous tempting artisan and carpet shops. But prices of these items are as high as the Maiden's Tower. Don't worry thought, if you have a local guide or bargaining skills developed from years of shopping at Tanah Abang market, the prices will come down by more than half.

It is easy to loose your way in the labyrinthine old city. But not to worry, just hail a cab and ask to go to the usual place: Fountain Square. The most surprising thing was that even the locals sometimes get lost. This is because Baku is changing very fast, due to the oil boom. Many Azeris, however, point out that they are not part of the boom.

The rapid influx of oil dollars means that the whole city looks as if it is in a beauty parlor. Multistory buildings are being constructed, old buildings and roads are undergoing renovations -- all over the city.

In the evening, one should not miss beautiful Boulevard. Running parallel to Baku's sea front, Azeri people enjoy leisurely strolls here. The 100-year-old Boulevard, now a national park, is also a popular spot for young lovers. The streets, decorated with lights, add to the ambiance.

Baku is also home to numerous museums. My favorite was the State Museum of Azerbaijani Carpets and Decorative Applied Arts (formerly the Lenin Museum), which has a very rich collection of centuries-old colorful carpets. The Azerbaijan State Museum of Art, State History Museum, Museum of Independence and the Museum of Musical Culture of Azerbaijan are also worth a visit.

The city also has a vibrant nightlife -- you can find music ranging from disco and jazz to operas and classical Azeri dances. One can even enjoy belly dancing at one of the caravansarai's (ancient inn) in the old town.

A picturesque view of Baku Bay. Baku city has been undergoing a complete modernization, thanks to its oil boom. (JP/Veeramalla Anjaiah)

On the outskirts of the city, you can explore not only numerous beaches, but also places like Gobustan, where 12,000-year-old rock carvings are preserved, and Ateshgah -- a Zoroastrian fire temple built in the 18th century.

Near Baku, the most interesting place in Azerbaijan is Oil Rocks, a town on the Caspian Sea. Built during the Soviet era, Oil Rocks has 200 kilometers of streets built on a former landfill. It is here that several scenes of The World is not Enough were shot. Further away from Baku you will find tourist places like Sheki, Ganja and Guba.

The most interesting part of the experience is the great Azeri cuisine, which is similar to Turkish food. Lamb kebabs, dolmas, caviar, yogurt soups, salads, bread, pillav and tomatoes, as well as many fresh fruits, will make your mouth water.

Baku and Azerbaijan in general are blessed with so many qualities that will provide fond memories for tourists. But it is above all, their warmness, generosity and hospitality that Azeri people are well known for. Last year around 1.3 million tourists visited Azerbaijan, a veritable leap from the 44,934 who came in 1995.

Baku has all the ingredients, and has invested billions of oil dollars, to ensure its spot as a popular international destination in the years to come. It might just be that one has to hurry up to see the original Baku, before it turns into a new star in global tourism industry.

Travel tips

Getting there: The United Arab Emirates' Emirates airlines flies daily from Jakarta to Dubai. From Dubai Azerbaijan Airlines (AZAL) flies to Baku six times in a week and from Baku to Dubai seven times a week. A two-way ticket may cost approximately US$1,800.

What to see

Fountain Square, Maiden's Tower, Shirvanshah's Palace, Old town (Cheri Shekher), Gobustan, Ateshgah fire temple, State Art Gallery, State Museum of Azerbaijani Carpets and Decorative Applied Arts, Boulevard, Oil Rocks in Baku and surrounding areas

Where to stay

Hyatt Regency, Holiday Inn, Absheron Hotel, Caspian Palace, and Radisson SAS Plaza and numerous budget hotels

Where to eat and what to eat

Karavanserai: An underground restaurant in the midst of walled city. The food is traditional Azeri with lots of lamb and Caspian fish. There are also regular Azeri music, magic shows and belly dance.
Yacht Restaurant: This yacht-shaped expensive restaurant on Caspian Sea offers delicious Azeri food and drinks.

Currency

One can bring in unlimited foreign currency to Baku with proper declaration. But you can't take Azeri currency manats out of the country. Azeri manat might be stronger than U.S. dollar but it is not accepted outside Azerbaijan. All manats must be exchanged before we leave Baku.

Buleleng to develop Lake Buyan

MY TRAVEL-Pristine view: A view of Lake Tamblingan, one of three lakes in central Bali being sought after by developers and investors as the island’s next potential tourism hotspot. Lake Tamblingan is part of a three-lake system within a massive caldera in Buleleng regency. The two others are the Buyan and Beratan lakes. JP/ALIT KERTARAHARJA

The regency of Buleleng may be getting another fancy tourism spot as the regent plans to invest money to develop Lake Buyan into an “ecotourism heaven”.

Buleleng Regent Putu Bagiada and investors from PT Anantara said both parties were ready to invest money into developing Lake Buyan into a “Buyan Ecotourism Heaven,” the area’s new name if the plan gets approved.

“We want to restore this area to its original grandeur, with its original culture and its original look,” Bagiada said at the Bali governor’s office Friday.

“This is the concept behind our plan to turn Lake Buyan into ‘Buyan Ecotourism Heaven.’”
Located in the Sukasada district, Lake Buyan is one of the triplet lakes situated within a massive caldera. A vast wild forest separates Lake Buyan from Lake Tamblingan on its west, while on its east lies Lake Beratan.

So far only the area around Lake Beratan has been developed into a tourist destination. Its close proximity with Eka Karya, the island’s largest botanical garden, has made Lake Beratan a favorite weekend getaway for the residents of Bali’s southern urban cities.

Lake Beratan also hosts Ulun Danu, one of the most important water temples on the island.
The three lakes have been getting shallower over the years due to sedimentation and were declared a priority for environmental damage mitigation by the State Ministry for the Environment last year.

Much of the blame for the sedimentation has been aimed at the construction of villas in the areas. Environmental groups say the villas take away water absorption space, causing mud to be carried along into the lakes.

The local agricultural practices, which use chemical fertilizers, have also been blamed for ruining the quality of the lake water.

When asked about what would change if Anantara were to be given the mandate to develop Lake Buyan, Anantara commissioner Liliah Sukoco said the company’s main concern was to maintain the area’s natural beauty.

“I understand the concern over further environmental degradation when a private company manages an environmental spot, but you have to understand that in order to maintain this lake, the local economy has to be improved,” she said.

She said Anantara’s plans to develop the 60-hectare area in and around Lake Buyan, which could absorb up to 1,000 workers, and that one of the company’s plans was to dredge the land under the lake bed to allow it to absorb more water and soil.

“But these are just plans, we are still waiting for the governor’s recommendation before we decide how we want to proceed,” she said.

Bali Governor Made Mangku Pastika did not make any statement on Friday’s presentation, saying only he would consider the proposal.

“We will look into the possible benefits of PT Anantara’s plans,” he said.

Lights Camera Amour

MY TRAVEL-In this month of love, Paris is a dream destination for any couple. The Jakarta Post draws inspiration from some of the most romantic movies ever as a guide to the city of love.

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Amélie (2001)
The iconic location of this delightful movie is Café des 2 Moulins, where our leading lady works. In Montmartre, one can ask any local where it is; just utter the words ‘Amélie Poulain’ (pronounced poo-lane) café and they’ll point you in the right direction.

See where Amelie worked her charm and take pictures over in the cigarette corner (where most conversations in the movie occur), the toilet (for a reminder of the infamous sex scene) and the seat where Amélie peeks at Nino from behind and first falls for him.

Other memorable scenes take place at the Gare de L’est train station, where the game of cat and mouse between Amélie and Nino begins. Note that Gare de L’est is also the gateway to voyages between Paris and other European cities.

When tracing the path of Amélie, one shouldn’t forget to stop by the Montmartre Carousel, where she tricks Nino into a ride. Located just below Sacre Coeur, it costs 2 euro a turn. A favorite spot for Parisians, the Sacre Coeur, a Roman Catholic Basilica, stands tall at the highest point of the city. Linger a while here for sweeping views of Paris.

To conclude Amélie’s adventure, shop for groceries at L’épicerie in Monsieur Collignon on the Rue des Trois Frères, skip stones in St. Martin’s Canal and pay a visit in Notre Dame, where Amélie remembers her mother’s accident. Spare a lazy weekend for this whimsical tour, following in the footsteps of a whimsical girl named…Amélie.

Moulin Rouge (2001)

Set in 1899, in the Montmartre area of Paris, this Academy Award winning film stars Nicole Kidman as Satine, a dancer in the famous cabaret club, Moulin Rouge, who falls in love with Christian (Ewan McGregor).

Moulin Rouge cabanet club: (JP/Kenny Santana)

The club remains a major tourist attraction. With its iconic red windmill (the English translation of Moulin Rouge) lighting up every night, Moulin Rouge draws audiences from around the world to its colorful cabaret show.

Feerie, a new vaudeville show with four different segments, has over 60 songs altogether and lasts for 2 hours. The show plays twice nightly at 9 p.m. and 11 p.m. Book early to avoid disappointment.

Though Feerie has no Romeo & Juliet storyline, like the Spectacular! Spectacular! show featured in the movie, film fans need not worry. Similar to Baz Luhrman’s movie, it’s a feast for the eyes and features the performance of the legendary Moulin Rouge dancers (nicknamed Doriss Girls), who bring the traditional can-can dance to life.

Add glitzy costumes, acrobatics, comedy shows performed by clowns and magicians and a night spent at Moulin Rouge is simply splendid.

Before Sunset (2004)

This film brings two souls, Jesse (Ethan Hawke) and Celine (Julie Delpy), from Before Sunrise back in Europe. Instead of Vienna however, this time they wander through the streets of Paris.

(Warner Independent Pictures)

Reconstruct their tour by browsing through the extensive collection at the Shakespeare & Co. bookstore in the vibrant Quartier Latin. The homey bookstore is the famous flop house of over 50,000 visitors, including celebrated writers like Henry Miller, James Baldwin, and Lawrence Durrell, just to name a few. Book and history aficionados shouldn’t miss this historic institution.
Avoiding the clichés of the city’s more famous Luxembourg and Tuileries gardens, the film used the Promenade Plantée, which runs from the Bois de Vincennes to Bastille. The 4.5 kilometer long elevated park makes for an easy afternoon walk or intense tête-à-tête, just like Jesse and Celine’s. Followed it up with coffee for two at the Pure Café (14 Rue Jean Macé) where visitors can imitate the movie by chatting over café au lait.

In one of the film’s more tender moments, Jesse and Celine take a river cruise (the couple uses the Canauxrama service) to see the city from the wonderful Seine. It’s the perfect way to see Paris’s gorgeous cityscape in an hour. Take the cruise right before sunset to view the city at its best, when all the lights come on.

(JP/Kenny Santana)

Paris,Je T’aime (2006)

The endless different ways to explore the romantic city are summed up in 18 different stories in this movie. One of our favorites is the Cohen Brothers’ Tuileries, in which a tourist’s (Steve Buscemi) idea of colorful Paris is ruined by an experience on board the city’s popular metro. But despite the seemingly unnerving scene, we say take the Metro to see the real Paris.

Skip Tuileries, the station portrayed in the movie, and instead head for the most fascinating station, Louvre-Rivoli. The station leads to the world’s most legendary museum (The Louvre) and boy, didn’t the city council do something about it. Magnificent replicas of famous artifacts are mounted on the Metro’s walls.

While you’re at it, jump into the train (see also Walter Salles’ segment, which stars Catalina Sandino Moreno, or Natalie Portman’s scene in the part directed by Tom Tykwer) where locals, backpackers and immigrants interact with each other in different languages. Personally, we like hearing the French words uttered in unison in that confined space of the train. It just feels, yeah, romantic.

Another place in the movie that’s worth visiting on a trip for two is the Père Lachaise (Wes Craven directed this section) where Oscar Wilde, Chopin and Marcel Proust are buried. It’s an eccentric choice but a necessary for the admirers of world’s late maestros.

Arguably the best segment in the movie, Alexander Payne’s 14th Arrondissement brings Margo Martindale, playing an American tourist, to Paris. Practicing her heavily-accented French, the new comer strolls through 14th Arrondissement’s Parc Montsouris and Montparnasse tower. Sure it’s not the Eiffel, but at 210 meters high, the Montparnasse tower has the advantage of being the tallest building in the city and gives fabulous views of the Parisian skyline.

As the film rolls to the end, Martindale’s character is filmed eating a baguette in beautiful Montsouris Park, as she watches the day go by. That very second, she realizes how she has fallen in love with the city during her trip and, most importantly, how Paris has returned the affection.